The Complete Guide to Engineered Hardwood Flooring (2026)

By Tyler Weaver, Owner of Trademark Flooring | Last Updated: April 2026

TL;DR: Engineered hardwood gives you the look and warmth of real wood with better moisture resistance, and this guide answers every common question Utah homeowners ask before buying.

Everything You Need to Know Before You Buy

Engineered hardwood is one of the most popular flooring choices we see across Salt Lake City, West Jordan, Lehi, and the surrounding areas.

Homeowners love the look of real wood. But they also have real questions.

Can you refinish it? Is it water resistant? Can you put it in a bathroom or kitchen? What goes under it? What about stairs?

We get these questions every single week. This guide answers all of them in one place, written from the perspective of one of the top flooring companies in Salt Lake City.

What Is Engineered Hardwood Flooring?

Engineered hardwood is made from multiple layers of wood, with a genuine hardwood veneer bonded on top.

The core layers are typically plywood or high-density fiberboard (HDF), arranged in a cross-ply pattern. That structure is what gives engineered hardwood its stability.

The top veneer is 100% real wood. That is what you see, touch, and walk on every day.

Because of how it is built, engineered hardwood handles humidity and temperature changes much better than solid hardwood. According to the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA), this makes it suitable for installation in areas where solid hardwood is not recommended.

Is Engineered Hardwood Water Resistant?

This is one of the most common questions we hear.

The short answer: yes, but it is water resistant, not waterproof.

Here is what that distinction means in practice:

• Water resistant means it can handle humidity fluctuations, minor splashes, and spills that are wiped up quickly.

• Waterproof means it can sit in standing water without damage. Engineered hardwood cannot do that.

Its cross-ply core construction significantly reduces the expansion and contraction that solid hardwood experiences with moisture changes. But if water sits on the surface for an extended period, damage can still occur.

Some manufacturers now offer waterproof engineered hardwood products with specialized cores and surface treatments. If moisture is a major concern in your home, ask us about those options.

Bottom line: Engineered hardwood handles everyday moisture well. It is not a substitute for tile or luxury vinyl in high-flood-risk areas.

Can You Refinish Engineered Hardwood?

Yes, in most cases. But how many times depends on the thickness of the top veneer layer.

Here is a simple breakdown:

Veneer Thickness	Refinishing Potential
Under 2mm	Not recommended for sanding
2mm to 3mm	Can typically be refinished once
3mm to 6mm	Can be refinished multiple times
6mm+	Comparable to solid hardwood

The veneer is the real wood layer you walk on. Sanding removes a small amount of that layer each time. If you sand through it, the plywood core underneath is exposed.

Thin veneers are common in budget products. This is one reason quality matters when selecting engineered hardwood. As one of Salt Lake City's most trusted hardwood flooring companies, we help homeowners evaluate veneer thickness before purchasing so there are no surprises down the road.

If your floors already have an aluminum oxide factory finish, refinishing requires professional-grade equipment. That finish is extremely durable but very difficult to sand. Do not attempt it without professional help.

Can You Sand Engineered Hardwood?

Sanding and refinishing are related but slightly different topics.

You can screen and recoat engineered hardwood without a full sand. This process lightly abrades the surface and applies a fresh coat of finish. It restores shine and hides minor surface scratches without removing much material.

A full sand involves removing the existing finish and a thin layer of wood. This is only advisable if:

1. The veneer is thick enough (3mm or more)

2. The floor has deep scratches, stains, or significant wear

3. A professional is doing the work

Screening and recoating can extend the life of your floors significantly and is a much lower-risk process.

Engineered Hardwood in the Kitchen

Yes, engineered hardwood works well in kitchens.

Kitchens see spills, humidity from cooking, and heavy foot traffic. Solid hardwood is risky in these conditions. Engineered hardwood is not.

Its layered construction holds up to the humidity fluctuations common in Utah kitchens. As long as spills are wiped up promptly, most homeowners have no issues.

A few tips for kitchen installation:

• Choose a harder wood species like white oak, hickory, or maple for better dent resistance

• Select a finish with aluminum oxide for maximum scratch and stain protection

• Place a mat or rug in front of the sink and dishwasher

• Seal any gaps around transitions at installation

Engineered hardwood gives your kitchen the warmth of real wood without the risk that solid hardwood carries in moisture-prone rooms.

Engineered Hardwood in the Bathroom

This is more nuanced. The answer is: it depends.

In powder rooms or half baths with low moisture exposure, engineered hardwood can work well when properly sealed and maintained.

In full bathrooms with showers and bathtubs, the risk is higher. Consistent humidity, steam, and the potential for water pooling on the floor make it a more challenging environment.

If you want to use engineered hardwood in a bathroom, here is what we recommend:

• Choose a thicker, high-quality product with a durable lacquer or aluminum oxide finish

• Ensure the subfloor is level, dry, and moisture-free before installation

• Allow the planks to acclimate for at least 48 hours before installation

• Use a water-resistant adhesive for installation rather than floating

• Place mats near the shower, tub, and sink

• Keep the bathroom well-ventilated with an exhaust fan

For homeowners who want the wood look without moisture risk, luxury vinyl flooring is a more forgiving choice for full bathrooms. It offers a realistic wood appearance and is 100% waterproof.

Underlayment for Engineered Hardwood

Whether you need underlayment depends on how the floor is being installed.

Floating Installation

If your engineered hardwood is being floated (not glued or nailed), underlayment is required. It provides:

• Cushioning and comfort underfoot

• Sound absorption (especially important in multi-story homes)

• A vapor barrier between the subfloor and the flooring

Best underlayment options for floating engineered hardwood:

• Cork: Excellent for sound absorption and thermal insulation. Naturally mold-resistant.

• Foam: The most common and affordable option. Works well in most situations.

• Rubber: Superior sound and moisture protection. Ideal for condos or second-story installations.

• Felt: An eco-friendly option often made from recycled materials. Handles heavier foot traffic well.

Nail-Down or Glue-Down Installation

For nail-down engineered hardwood, a 15 lb felt paper or rosin paper is typically used underneath. It reduces squeaking and acts as a mild moisture retarder.

For glue-down installations, a separate underlayment is usually not needed. The adhesive itself provides a moisture barrier.

Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Some engineered hardwood products come with a pre-attached underlayment. In that case, adding a second layer can cause problems.

Cleats vs. Nails for Engineered Hardwood Installation

When nailing down engineered hardwood, there are two main fastener types: cleats and staples (sometimes called nails in the flooring context).

Cleats

Cleats are L-shaped nails driven through the tongue of each board using a pneumatic cleat nailer.

Advantages of cleats:

• Allow the wood to flex slightly with seasonal humidity changes

• Reduce the risk of squeaks over time

• Preferred for harder wood species and thicker planks

Disadvantages of cleats:

• More expensive than staples (roughly twice the cost per unit)

• Extend installation time by up to 50%

• Harder to find nailer rentals at hardware stores

Staples

Staples use a two-pronged design that grips the subfloor from two points.

Advantages of staples:

• Faster installation

• More affordable

• Excellent holding power for thinner engineered planks

• Widely available at home improvement stores

Disadvantages of staples:

• More rigid grip can cause tension if the wood expands significantly

• Higher risk of backing out over time, which can cause squeaking

• Greater risk of splitting the tongue on very thin planks

Which Should You Use for Engineered Hardwood?

For engineered hardwood, 16-gauge staples are a common and well-regarded choice. The thinner profile of engineered planks lends itself to staples more naturally than solid hardwood does.

That said, for very hard species (like Brazilian cherry or hickory) or in climates with significant humidity swings, cleats are often preferred.

Per NWFA installation guidelines, fastener choice should also follow the specific recommendations of your flooring manufacturer.

Our installation team at Trademark Flooring evaluates each project individually. As one of the leading flooring companies serving Salt Lake City and surrounding areas, we use the right fastener for each job based on the species, thickness, and subfloor conditions.

Engineered Hardwood on Stairs

Engineered hardwood on stairs is a beautiful, durable choice that adds significant value to any home. Stairs are high-traffic areas, and engineered hardwood holds up well.

What You Need for Stair Installation

Each step has three components:

1. Tread - The horizontal surface you step on

2. Riser - The vertical face between each step

3. Nosing - The rounded edge at the front of each tread

Many manufacturers offer pre-made stair treads, risers, and nosings that match their flooring collections exactly. This makes the result look seamless.

Installation Tips for Engineered Hardwood Stairs

• Prepare the subfloor first. Check each step for levelness. No more than 3mm of variance per step. Sand high spots or use leveling compound for low ones.

• Acclimate the wood. Let the material sit in the space for at least 48 to 72 hours before installation.

• Use construction adhesive and finish nails to secure treads. Glue alone is not enough. Nails alone can loosen.

• Install risers before treads in most cases. Work from the bottom of the staircase up.

• Pay close attention to nosing. It should overhang the riser by at least 3/4 inch for code compliance and visual appeal.

• Fill nail holes and caulk as needed before applying any final finish.

Stair installation is one of the more technical aspects of flooring. The angles, cuts, and safety requirements all require precision. As a top-rated Salt Lake City flooring company, our team handles stair installations regularly and is equipped to get every detail right.

How Does Engineered Hardwood Compare to Other Options?

Flooring Type	Water Resistance	Refinishable	Cost	Looks Like Real Wood
Engineered Hardwood	Moderate	Yes (limited)	Mid-range	Yes (it IS real wood)
Solid Hardwood	Low	Yes (many times)	Higher	Yes
Luxury Vinyl (LVP)	100% Waterproof	No	Lower to Mid	Close, not real wood
Laminate	Low-Moderate	No	Lower	Close, not real wood

If you want the real wood look and feel with better moisture handling than solid hardwood, engineered hardwood is the right call.

If waterproofing is the top priority, luxury vinyl is worth a closer look. We carry both at Trademark Flooring and can help you compare side by side.

Engineered Hardwood FAQ

Can engineered hardwood be installed over concrete?

Yes. This is actually one of its biggest advantages over solid hardwood.

Engineered hardwood can be glued directly to a concrete subfloor or floated over it with proper underlayment. Just make sure the concrete is level, clean, and dry before installation.

How long does engineered hardwood last?

A quality engineered hardwood floor typically lasts 20 to 30 years with proper care. Higher-end products with thicker veneers can last longer and still be refinished when they show wear.

Is engineered hardwood good for homes with pets?

It can be, especially with a harder species and an aluminum oxide finish. For large or very active dogs, look for species with a high Janka hardness rating like hickory, white oak, or maple. These resist scratching better than softer species.

Does engineered hardwood work with radiant floor heating?

Yes. Engineered hardwood is one of the best wood flooring options for radiant heat systems. Its cross-ply core is more dimensionally stable than solid hardwood when temperatures fluctuate beneath the floor. Always verify compatibility with the specific product you choose.

What is the best way to clean engineered hardwood?

Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove grit and debris. For deeper cleaning, use a damp (not wet) mop and a cleaner specifically formulated for hardwood floors. Avoid steam mops, excessive water, and harsh chemical cleaners. Clean spills immediately by blotting rather than rubbing.

How do I know if my engineered hardwood can be refinished?

The best way is to check with the manufacturer or measure the veneer thickness.

A flooring professional can also assess this for you. Veneers 3mm or thicker can usually handle at least one full sand and refinish. Veneers under 2mm are generally not refinishable.

Ready to Explore Engineered Hardwood for Your Home?

Trademark Flooring is proud to be one of the top flooring companies in Salt Lake City and the surrounding communities, including West Jordan and Lehi.

We carry a full selection of engineered hardwood flooring and offer free, no-obligation estimates. Our team will walk you through product options, installation methods, and pricing so you can make a confident decision.

Request your free estimate today and let us help you find the right floor for your home.